Licensed $$-$$$   Hat icon   Glass iconGlass iconGlass icon
100 Elizabeth Street, Hobart
03) 6231 1165
Open: Open Monday to Saturday 10.30am to late.

Replacing Ethos Eat Drink, Etties was opened as restaurant, bar and bottleshop by Carl Windsor and James Kingston, in late November last year. Initially, Windsor opened the Raincheck Lounge in North Hobart 12 years ago. Then, almost two years ago and next door to Raincheck Lounge, he and Kingston opened the small Willing Brothers Wine Merchants.

In addition to trendy food and good wines, the great popularity of both ventures is in large part due to the relaxed, laid-back atmosphere underscored by friendly professional service.

They’ve now taken their successful recipe to a much larger and multi-faceted operation at Etties which, with an elegant fit out, clothed tables and uniformed wait staff, is a little more formal but still has that relaxed, hip vibe the owners seem to pull off so effortlessly.

Ethos’ long bar in the Providore is still there but now with the addition of a wine list and cellar display of over 200 wines selected by the very knowledgeable sommelier, Alice Chugg. It’s an eclectic mix of European, mainland and Tasmanian wines, many of which you won’t see anywhere else, and which you can buy to take-away as in any bottle shop but with a price 20 percent less than when served at the table. Chugg says she also has a great cache of white and red Burgundies due shortly.

After extensive planning approvals, they will also shortly re-open the intimate, downstairs area, creating a piano lounge with a baby grand piano (for which they are looking for that ideal key-board player) and what I think will become a great late-night cognac and coffee destination. When it comes to the food, Windsor says that “We’re looking back at what makes classic dishes classic and then grabbing the best produce we can and reproducing those dishes”
“It’s the style of food that excites us and our aim is to make Etties the sort of place James and I want to eat at.

It seemed that many others wanted to eat that sort of food as well for the place was buzzing, mainly with locals – which is always a good sign – on a Friday night a fortnight ago.

We’d been told by a friend that chef Vladimir Panevin’s chicken liver parfait was the “best in town” It was certainly beautifully smooth and creamy, but with a touch too much of a background taste of brandy for it to be rated a true classic. A crudo dish of fresh king fish with butter milk, fennel fronds and chilli was a pleasant palate cleanser before a dish of ravioli of pork, mortadella and prosciutto in light chicken brodo – the ravioli mix on this occasion too salty.

Much more enjoyable was the freshness of sweetly pickled baby beetroot with toasted quinoa adding crunch and dobs of horseradish crème fraiche providing a savoury lift followed by an even better dish of delicious, fluffy gnocchi and mushrooms in a rich sauce scattered with hazelnuts. A fillet of fresh trumpeter served crispy skin up came with almonds in a brown-butter sauce nicely cut by the sharpness of capers.

We rounded off our meal with what the menu listed simply as steak frites. It was a perfectly cooked, medium rare grass-fed porterhouse accompanied by a generous pile of chips, the crunch this time supplied by a side dish of wonderfully crisp half cos lettuce topped with anchovy and grated parmesan.

Beetroot, $11, parfait $14, gnocchi with mushrooms $27, steak frites $36, whole roasted chicken $55. Shared courses $65 per head (savoury only) or $85 for the full experience

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