Prossers on the Beach

Licensed $$$   Hat iconHat icon   Glass iconGlass icon
1 Beach Road, Sandy Bay
03) 6225 2276
Open: Lunch and Dinner Monday to Saturday and Sunday lunch.

After 25 years of trading, there have recently been two big changes at Prossers. One is the realisation of the family’s long-held plans to remodel and extend the restaurant to take better advantage of its unique waterfront location. The result is a quite superb elegantly chic interior with huge double-glazed glass doors opening to a expansive sun deck and affording inside diners unsurpassed views over the Derwent and the to-ing and fro-ing of its water traffic.

The second big change has been the return of Michael Prosser from his decade-plus years servicing the world’s celebrities and billionaires on their floating gin palaces cruising the Mediterranean and Caribbean. The ultimate professional, he’s brought a new sense of service, order and hospitality to the floor and put an efficient and friendly team together, things that were often lacking in the past. And he’s brought his knowledge and long experience, plus a few outstanding wines from his own cellar, to introduce some interest and excitement to what had for too long been a fairly predictable, run-of-mill wine selection.

And the food? As always, the cooking is near faultless, the ingredients first class.

But, apart from some Asian flourishes in the entrees, the menu for me lacks the imaginative and creative touches that chef Stuart Prosser has so admirably shown in the past. While an ‘80s classic of grilled asparagus with jamon, parmesan and poached egg was still as good as ever, as, no doubt, was the night’s special of the blackened fish he first introduced to Hobart in the late ’80, his blue eye baked in puff pastry, flawlessly prepared though it was, was very old hat and could well be relegated to wherever old hats go. Food and diners have moved on and even my 83-year-old mother in law found the dish “better without the pastry”.

But our dinner was lifted by the bright sparkle of flavours in entrees such as the sashimi of yellow fin tuna with soba noodles, avocado and wasabi, the Sichuan pickled cucumber, ginger and citrus glaze of the slow-cooked octopus and the lime and Thai paw paw salad accompanying the chilli salt calamari. Split grilled tiger prawns with chilli and citrus butter, mussels steamed in cider with crème fraiche and spanner crab spaghettinni were also good.

Despite my reservations, Prossers remains our best seafood restaurant and has been booked solid since reopening after the renovations. Now, all I feel is needed is a little more thought and adventurous tweaking to bring the menu up to the standard of the other recent improvements and Prossers could sit proudly among the most enjoyable seafood eateries in the country.

Oysters $19/$38; entrees $15 to $22; mains $28 to $36; crayfish from the tanks at market price; duck $32; steak $36; desserts straddling $15

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