A few weeks ago, I received an e-mail from Joel Robert, chef at Remi de Provence, inviting me to a visit and saying they’d “come a long way” since a less than flattering review I’d written in April last year, a month or so after their opening.
Earlier this week I accepted his offer and was glad I did. For Robert’s “long way” was a hell of a long way – via France, in fact, where he and owner, Remi Bancal, had spent two weeks last October immersing themselves in food, particularly the food of Provence, Remi’s home region.
The experience was an eye opener, Robert says. “I now have a much better understanding of the traditions behind typical French and Provencal bistro classics – how they’re cooked, flavoured and presented. This has given me the confidence to present them in a slightly more modern style while retaining the essence of those traditions”.
Accordingly, a peppery soup the colour of Provencal sunshine came chock full of white beans, black cabbage and speck accompanied by one of the very best, crunchy-crusted restaurant breads in town. A slice of silky, textbook-perfect duck liver parfait came with sweet-pickled cumquat segments classically partnered with lovely warm brioche. The sweet earthiness of confit heirloom beetroots was cut by the piquancy of Tongola goat curd and slices of rosy duck breast sat atop a Puy lentil salad with cherry and blood orange vinaigrette.
The cauliflower puree under a moist darn of blue eye was subtly Mediterranean spiced with cumin and, unlike last visit where the main disappointment were the braises, this time unashamedly nostalgic dishes like a twice-cooked neck of lamb with braised salsify and chestnuts and pork braised in red wine stuck close to their roots and the classic script as did a delicious crème brulee.
The menu is still arranged in true bistro style with the normal entrees, mains, grills and sides augmented by a dish of the day- beef daube on Tuesdays, duck, pork and sausage cassoulet on Wednesday and so on as well as a table d’hotes tasting menu ($75/$125 with wines) and a menu express ($27.50) for lunch and evening early birds.
While the array of 13 different, perfectly conditioned French cheeses, the fabulous wine and French spirit selection – and their prices – and the house-made offerings available in the cave a manger still warrant a visit in themselves, the service is now much more friendly and relaxed with the well-executed and flavoursome food now completing the picture.
Entrees $12.50 to $15.50; mains $27/28, grills $27.50 to a 600g rib eye at $55.00; cheeses $10.00 to $17.50 per 50g; desserts $11.00 to $14.50.
