In design, style of seating and the style of food, Tasmania has not seen anything quite like Garagistes before.
From the heavy metal door to the windowed salume curing room, the enclosed wood-fired oven, hand-made crockery and floor staff clothing, the dominant colour is charcoal black, relieved by pale timber furnishings and an old brick wall and ceiling beams, left as reminders of the motor garage it used to be.
With four communal tables set at right angles to a long bar and open kitchen, partners Luke Burgess, Katrina Birchmeier and Kirk Richardson have turned what could easily have been a barn-like space into a very stylish and laid-back wine bar/restaurant where the acoustics allow easy cross-table conversations above the palpable buzz of crowded, happy diners.
The daily menu is small and you are encouraged to share dishes. With four of us, Birchmeier suggested we try the whole menu. So we did. First came some wonderfully plump, briny oysters followed by a small platter of two of Burgess’ delicious salami and excellent, crusty house-made bread. Then some sensational salt cod fritters, the fish creamily textured inside a deep-fried crust. These were followed by a procession of dishes composed of simple, quality ingredients in unusual and exciting combinations, flavours and textures.
The velvety richness of a chicken liver parfait was set against the crunch of puffed buckwheat; the rawness of jack mackerel cut by pickles and the tang of elderberries; fish roe by Tongola Billy; chewy charred octopus contrasted with the sweetness of creamy cauliflower; and fat green olives stuffed with pork came crisply deep-fried with a dab of a golden aioli of Basque pepper. Nothing comes with what one would normally understand as a sauce. Instead flavours are heightened by a pickled or salted component, the sharp cut of goat’s cheese, vinegar dressings and the peppery freshness of things like radishes, mache and cress.
The wines, according to the introduction, are sourced from “small artisan growers, who make wine with integrity and respect for the land. Their approach in the vineyard is sustainable, organic or biodynamic”.
The excellent d’Meure wines are their favoured Tasmanian. Then there are a few from the mainland before a journey around the wine byways rather than highways of regional France and Italy with comprehensive producer notes to guide you. It really is a most exciting list There’s a diverse selection of beers, ciders, sake and wines by the glass which, with their no-booking policy at dinner, can be enjoyed at the bar along with a few lighter dishes – or even a full meal if you like – while you wait. Or you can just drop in to enjoy the buzz and a glass anytime.
Savoury dishes $11 to $35; cheeses $11; desserts $15; set 4-course Sunday lunch $65
